Pulcinella ist eine jahrhundertealte Figur des neapolitanischen Volkstheaters mit weißem Kostüm, langer Nase und schwarzer Maske und ein Markenzeichen der Commedia dell’Arte. Aus dem lebhaften Neapel kommt auch der lebhafte Enzo Pragliola, der früher mal Pizzabäcker im Freiburger Feinkostladen "Primo Market" war und nun seit Juni die Pizzeria "Pulcinella" in der Habsburgerstraße 121 betreibt. Dort war zuvor ein indisches Lokal. Jetzt kochen und backen hier Pragliola, seine peruanische Ehefrau Lizbeth, deren Mutter Flor Coronado und sein Cousin Antonino Iannotti. Das "Pulcinella" ist ein echter Familienbetrieb – die Tradition des Pizzabackens hat Signore Pragliola von seinen Eltern gelernt.
Die Karte ist relativ klein: Es gibt 13 Pizzen und acht Pastagerichte, einige Salate und Desserts wie Tiramisu, Delizie al limone (kleiner Zitronenkuchen) oder Babà (Hefekuchen). Ein Schwerpunkt sind Gerichte aus Süditalien und speziell aus Enzo Pragliolas Heimat Kampanien.
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